Thursday, December 6, 2012

How Do Wear Your Bike?


Betsey Johnson can ride a bike.



Before I talk about what Betsey is doing here...

In the last 10 years, bicycle culture has experienced resurgence into our society. This can be seen with the trend of hipster culture that uses the bicycle as a means of transportation and a symbol of anti-consumerism. But, there’s a but…

Within our capitalist culture, it was only a matter of time before someone (like Betsey Johnson) took the opportunity to use the bike as a prop to turn it into a product consumers wanted (needed!).  Bicycle culture is becoming normalized through advertising and its use in fashion from runways to clothing designs.

Bicycles entering the sphere of hip, trendy accessories was inevitable. Bicycles should be accepted as part of consumer culture, no matter the form in which the bike is used, because there is potential for increased ridership and female deviance from what’s allowed to be called sexy.





However, this type of application is potentially problematic, because it turns the bike into a passive object. As an extremist example, Betsey Johnson deconstructs the bike by having her models wear bicycle parts as accessories. While the notion of fetishizing the bike purely for the purpose of exploiting its recent popularity is absurd, it’s not exactly uncommon for Betsey Johnson nor anyone in the fashion world to do so.


An out lash against her necklaces, for instance, is aimed at the idea of treating the models as sexual objects. According to Jac’s blog, the choker “is degrading and lowers every woman who wears it.”


While objectifying women is wrong, in the case of Betsey’s line it is marketed purely to women and should be seen as a sign of giving women who wear the chokers a sense of sexual independence. It isn’t fair to make assumptions about women who express their sexuality through wearing provocative jewelry or to take the words used as literal. To counter Jac, as well, what is popular in fashion is short-lived. It’s highly unlikely that Betsey will create multiple lines that use the bike in this way. The fashion world exploits the beauty of models in order to sell a product. By association, their riding/"wearing" bicycles on runways or in advertisements surfaces as a new way for women to feel sexy and show off their style. There are women who want to look a certain way, no matter where they are or what they are doing, so fashionable women on bikes creates positive imagery.

As for the bicycles treated as sexy objects, it broadens the appeal of bicycles to a new audience that may not have paid any attention to cycling beforehand. This increases the likelihood of a non-rider to make the effort to try cycling as a way to boost their image. Increased ridership, at any experience level, creates more bike advocacy in order to create safer and more biker-friendly streets. But, can you really wear whatever you want when you ride?



This satirical cartoon exaggerates the idea of a fashionista attempting to ride a bike purely because it is chic. At the same time, it implies that you can't dress sexily while riding. This is a problem, because there are ways to ride a bike while wearing unconventional biking attire (heels, dresses, etc.) Bicycling creates a new opportunity for women to liberate themselves from stereotypical passivity by allowing them to look good while also getting around. This website, among many, gives advice on how to wear a dress or a skirt while safely riding a bike, proving it can be done.



People against a consumptive and wasteful society don’t want to see bicycles associated with materialism. It's easy to attack fashion for how it can repackage countercultures and break them down into purchasable, must-haves, but there are times where stylish models are riding bicycles in a reasonable manner. The shift of commodifying bikes towards accessories is unavoidable since we live in a society based on free enterprise. While bikes are put onto the market in higher numbers and in new venues, this could be a chance for continued improvements in technology, comfort and (most importantly) safety. In turn, people will become more likely to ride especially as brands are beginning to utilize the misconceptions surrounding bicycle culture by profiting on clothing and merchandise that allows for dressing for the destination and not the journey.





Wednesday, November 28, 2012

How Do You Take Your Bike?


PPQ’s 2012/2013 fall/winter collection was the first time in the history of London Fashion Week to feature a bike on the catwalk.


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Today, bicycles are everywhere from the roads to boutique window displays to your garage (if you have one). Since its humble beginnings, new meanings and associations constantly transform the bicycle. Bicycle culture is becoming normalized as bikes are integrated into consumer culture in new and sometimes unexpected ways. The increase in environmentalism creates opportunities for the wealthy to own and customize bicycles that will reflect their sense of luxury. Whether or not a consensus may be reached as to how the bicycle should be used, safety and convenience will (and should) remain as the highest concerns.

Bicycles should be accepted as part of consumer culture, no matter the form in which the bike is used, because there is potential for increased ridership. Ultimately, celebrity endorsements create positive representation not only for bikes, but their own self-image.

Bicycles entering the sphere of hip, trendy accessories was inevitable. Within our capitalist culture, it was only a matter of time before someone took the opportunity to use the bike as a prop to turn it into a product people wanted (needed!).  However, this type of application  is problematic, because it turns the bike into a passive object.

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Betsey John capitalizes on the cool factor of bicycling to promote herself as fun and energetic at the end of a runway show.

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Her line featured elements such as road lines on the catwalk, street projections in the background, and models both holding and wearing bike parts such as wheels, helmets and bike chains.

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Her “Ride Me” chokers sold out within the first week in her stores and online.

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It’s strange when a counterculture is repackaged so that consumers may be convinced that to buy it will improve or enhance their lives and image. What makes the bicycle different, from that of something like British punk culture incorporated into American fashion during the ‘80s, is that bicycles have some positive associations: riders are seen as leading healthy/active lifestyles and bicycles are safer on the environment than cars. 

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So what’s the problem with fashion bikes on a runway, for instance?
Clearly, it is silly and unrealistic to think that some of the styling (whether tight/long clothes or 6 inch wedge heels) can be worn safely (if at all) while cycling.

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It is also understandable that people against a consumptive and wasteful society don’t want to see bicycles associated with materialism. Still, it’s unavoidable since we live in a society based on free enterprise. While bikes are put onto the market in higher numbers, this could be a chance for continued improvements in technology, comfort and (most importantly) safety.

                                      “Mobility Celebrity”

Celebrities are play an important role in the fashion industry, as they are often cues for the latest trends. People follow their lead. However, someone who doesn’t buy into this unavoidable thing called pop culture probably wouldn’t want to see celebrities pretending to engage in cycling: whether for film shoots or paparazzi purposes.




However, the positive that comes out of bicycles entering the mainstream as the cool thing to do is that there is the potential for increased ridership. Celebrity culture affects our society beyond reasonable comprehension (don’t tell me you’ve never been infatuated with someone you’ve never met, but saw in a movie once or 10 times). Considering how famous people are idolized and looked to as role models, for children and adults (aka pretty much everyone), I don’t see why something as healthy as bicycling can’t and shouldn’t be endorsed. 

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Bridging the Gap: Redefining Bicycle Culture

“Style-themed bike rides are just one way in which advocacy groups are hoping to shed bicycling of its strict association with competitive racing and make it more appealing to casual riders and potential commuters in the United States.”

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Mimicry is the sincerest form of flattery, right?

Can there be a middle ground? I think so. Missoni created a line of fashionable bicycles at an affordable price that sold exclusively at Target stores. They sold out almost completely on the first day.



Reactions?

Cycle Chic

“A phrase coined in the mid-2000s by Danish 'bicycle ambassador' Mikael Colville-Andersen on his website, Copenhagenize.com, which highlights the Danish capital's bicycle culture.”

The thing about trends is that they don’t last, but their effect remains. Fashion is marketed towards people with money (or credit), so once something stops making money it leaves the shelves to make room for the next big thing.

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What makes bicycling unique is that it won’t disappear just because Gucci decides not to make another one. I don’t think we’re going to have to get used to seeing bikes in used unconventional ways in advertisements. Brands are beginning to utilize the misconceptions surrounding bicycle culture by profiting on clothing and merchandise that allows for dressing for the destination and not the journey.